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Southern Florida

Exploring Everglades, Biscayne and Dry Tortugas National Parks

By Scott Richardson

Everglades National Park

The last time I was in the Everglades, I was a teenager and my family was on vacation in Fort Meyers Beach. I remember walking along boardwalks, seeing alligators and riding on an airboat.

I was excited to return 20 years later, see what memories it would spark and experience it in a new way.

The first night, I arrived in the park after dark. Thanks to a budget stand-off, the government was shutdown and I wasn't sure what facilities would be available. I tried the bathroom door, but it was locked. After wandering around in the dark, I found another bathroom and it opened. Upon exiting, I saw a sign warning of panthers in the area. The thought of seeing one is awesome, but while wandering back to my campsite, the thought of meeting two glowing eyes in the dark is actually pretty horrifying.

The next morning, I explored as much of the park's east side between Homestead and Flamingo that I could. There are a multitude of trails, and it was easy to find solitude just an hour outside of Miami.

I enjoy solitude. It's probably why I love the national parks so much, you can usually find an unpopulated place to relax or take a hike with only a few people around. Of course, there's plenty of parks that are completely mobbed, and the Anhinga Trail in the Everglades is one of those places.

Even while dodging between busloads of elementary school students on a field trip, the short walk along the boardwalks is pretty enjoyable. The sawgrass marsh is home to alligators, turtles and plenty of birds. Near the trailhead, an alligator was resting with a half dozen baby gators by her side.

When I told people I'd be camping in the Everglades, they all said "Aren't there snakes and gators?" I mean, yeah, probably, but the campground is pretty well developed.

With the Everglades spanning the entire tip of Florida, there's not a lot of ambient light that fills the skies at night. Both of my nights in the campground were clear and I was able to see a sky filled with stars. It's a nice treat since I live in a densely populated area near Philadelphia.

Biscayne National Park

Last summer I decided that I'd make it a goal to visit all of America's national parks. Yosemite, Zion and the Grand Canyon have their obvious appeal. A park like Biscayne? I'd never even heard of it.

I'm not a water aficionado. That's part of the benefit of my personal national park challenge: see new places, try new things. In Biscayne, I rented a wetsuit and booked a tour so I could experience all the park had to offer.

I spent the morning snorkeling (...poorly) in open water as waves crashed over my snorkel and left me gargling salt water.

The afternoon was spent exploring the mangroves by stand up paddle-board, and learning about the rich biodiversity of plants and animals that call this brackish water home as bonnethead and nurse sharks occasionally swam by.

Nature in the Florida Keys

My image of the Florida keys was of shirtless men in their sixties relaxing on the beach to a Jimmy Buffett song. I'm not sure my imagination was that far off.

Luckily for me, the keys also have a ton of natural wonders to enjoy.

Dry Tortugas National Park

A scuba loving former boss told me all about Dry Tortugas when he realized I was a fan of the national parks. He said it was a 19th century fort, completely surrounded by coral reefs far outside of Key West. I was intrigued.

Leaving from Key West, it's a 2.5 hour boat ride until you start to see the fort emerge on the horizon. Inside the fort is a two-stories of arch-lined hallways that contrast with the peaceful teal waters outside.

Snorkeling along the moat wall reveals an underwater ecosystem of brightly colored fish and coral.

Travel resources

Everglades National Park

Anhinga trail: An extremely diverse ecosystem within the sawgrass marsh where alligators and a variety of birds are a common sight. Easy, but busy, walk along the boardwalks. Close to the park's Homestead entrance.

Gumbo Limbo trail: Shares a trailhead with the Anhinga Trail. Short nature walk explores a jungle-like collection of trees and ferns. See the red, peeling bark of the Gumbo Limbo, nick-named the tourist tree as it's bark is reminiscent of peeling skin.

Also explore: As many of the trails and overlooks from the park's east entrance down to the Flamingo boat launch. Grab lunch at the food truck at Flamingo.

Long Pine Key campground: Basic campground close to Homestead, FL. Quiet campsites set among trees. Running water, bathrooms and showers.

Biscayne National Park

Biscayne is best explored by boat, and unless you have access to one, you'll need to find a tour group to join.

Biscayne National Park Institute: Choose the full-day snorkel and paddle eco adventure. Boat to a mooring buoy, snorkel in open water, lunch stop and hike on a barrier island, and weave a stand-up paddle board through thick mangrove forests, occasionally while kneeling and propelling yourself by grabbing branches in thick areas.

Dry Tortugas National Park

Yankee Freedom ferry: The only way to get to Dry Tortugas unless you've got a plane or boat. 2.5-hours each way, leaves from the end of Key West. Snorkel gear, breakfast and lunch included with ticket.

State Parks throughout the Florida Keys

Windley Key Fossil Reef Geological State Park: Self-guided nature trails around an old quarry. Challenge yourself to identify tropical trees, then learn all about the coral patterns along the quarry wall.

Long Key State Park: Hike through the hammocks, and keep an eye out for birds as you walk along the water's edge.

Curry Hammock State Park: Unless you're interested in kayaking or the beach, keeping driving south along US-1 and look for the nature trail on your right. Explore trees and marvel at the clear, turquoise water.

Key West

Ernest Hemingway House: Probably the one attraction you know of in Key West. House tour with a quirky guide that's constantly stopping to give the cats treats. Yes, you can pet the cats.

Fort Zachary Taylor State Park: Save some money on park admission (and explore more of Key West) by walking in from town. Explore a 19th-century fortress with arches reminiscent of Dry Tortugas.

Boyd's Key West campground: Stock Island/Key West. Primarily an RV park, tight spaces, pool. Mostly retired tenants, some families and small groups. Staff patrols the campground, but neighbors can be rowdy and loud.

Best meals

Q'Kenan Restaurant, Venezuelan: Venezuelan shredded beef arepas that tasted so good as soon as I left the conference hotel I’d been trapped in. Warm beef in a bun made of corn and flour, sauces on the table to spice it up and a side of black beans. Served inside an unassuming strip-mall surrounded by timeshare properties. 8117 Vineland Ave, Orlando, FL 32821.